At this moment, China’s restaurant industry is going through a storm. A chain restaurant called Xibei became the target of mass criticism overnight, after an internet influencer accused them of serving pre-made food. This seemingly minor incident has drawn the ire of nearly all consumers. The company, which is reportedly planning an IPO next year, is now facing a crisis. Analysts believe this issue could disrupt its plans and potentially lead to the founder’s financial ruin.
The story goes like this: Xibei, a chain specializing in Northwestern Chinese cuisine, has over 370 outlets across the country. Its focus is on food safety, children’s meals, and premium, with most of its restaurants located in popular shopping malls. As for the taste, it’s somewhat mediocre. Two weeks ago, a well-known Chinese internet critic dined at Xibei and posted his dissatisfaction on social media. He ordered 15 dishes, most of which were “pre-made,” yet there was no mention of this on the menu. The term “pre-made dishes” is a kind of uniquely Chinese concept, similar to what is known in the West but different.
The founder of Xibei, Jia (Xibei’s name 西贝 is derived from the two parts of his first name 贾), quickly responded with fury, claiming that their dishes were not pre-made according to state regulations, and he would take legal action against these unfounded accusations. At the same time, he invited customers to visit their open kitchens. This actually attracted some reporters, but the result was the opposite of what they hoped for: the kitchen was found to have several issues, such as frozen vegetables with a 24-month shelf life, 18-month-old lamb, and a large amount of “pre-made food.” Xibei was soon subject to a widespread boycott, with customers dwindling to almost none.
The concept of “pre-made dishes” is often viewed as a Western industrial import—frozen, pre-cooked food that needs reheating. However, Chinese cuisine differs significantly from Western foods like pizza, so I believe the term “pre-made food” in the Chinese context has a distinct meaning, which is why there is only a Chinese Wikipedia entry for it. One food critic made a compelling point in this incident: whether a dish is considered pre-made should depend on when the Maillard reaction (the chemical process that gives browned food its distinctive flavor) first occurs.
If the Maillard reaction happens shortly before the dish is served, it is not considered pre-made, even if it is made from frozen ingredients. For example, freezing lamb for extended periods is common because farmers tend to sell it when their pastures run low in October, to cut costs. However, if the lamb is cooked, then frozen, and reheated later, it becomes pre-made. Xibei’s kitchen was found to have large amounts of pre-cooked, frozen food, often with preservatives. These were not even made by Xibei but supplied by large frozen food vendors, which starkly contrasts with the company’s health-conscious claims. Parents were especially outraged.
As with my taste in cars, I don’t consider myself a glutton or someone driven by greed. I rely heavily on fast food chains like KFC, and my go-to order is almost always the Original Recipe chicken. When I was studying auto restoration in US, the KFC staff would see me through the window as I parked, and they would prepare my K9 for me in advance. There was even one time when I wasn’t charged due to a credit card error. Or, I also enjoy Panda Express. My work lunch typically consists of three pieces of Original Recipe chicken and two tomatoes. Overall, I appreciate the consistency of taste and hygiene that comes with familiar food. Of course, when I mention my fondness for KFC and the W140, I often face criticism from connoisseurs who accuse me of lacking an appreciation for the joys of life.
Despite being labeled as junk food, KFC takes its product quality seriously, with strict “best before” times. The Original Recipe chicken has the longest shelf life, 90 minutes in China. If it’s kept beyond this time, it’s discarded. Since making the Original Recipe chicken is the most complex (it’s breaded and fried on-site), KFC staff generally won’t prepare more than necessary in advance. When you order, it’s common to be told that it will take 15 minutes. This means that the Maillard reaction will likely happen only after the order is placed. If you ask, you can always get freshly prepared chicken or select from the five available cuts. The Original Recipe chicken certainly lives up to the expectations of those who appreciate purity.
To me, there’s no problem in comparing the Original Recipe chicken with the W140. Both embody a simple, pure way of life. I restore cars using original formulas, and KFC uses its original recipe to make fried chicken—what’s wrong with that?
I’m not the only one surprised by people’s reactions to the Xibei controversy, especially considering that they only have 370 stores in a country of 1.4 billion people, and many people have never even tried their food. Some interviewees pointed out the reason for this: most people admitted that pre-packaged meals themselves are not that important, as there’s no scientific evidence proving their harm. They simply felt that Xibei’s premium price was unjustified. High-priced products, they argue, should have a unique quality, like being made by hand or cooked fresh on-site. If Xibei were selling cheap pre-made meals, no one would have minded. This is one of the reasons I have a deeper appreciation for KFC. It’s made for me, and it’s much cheaper than Xibei.
While I feel confident in my food choices, I do feel a bit inferior when it comes to my car collection. People believe that high-end products should have more uniqueness—at least they shouldn’t be pre-made. So, when it comes to cars, what kind of premium would be required to avoid a pre-made product? Honestly, I’m quite sensitive to pre-made items, and I’ve been aware of this for a long time, but not in relation to food. I first realized the existence of pre-made elements in life when I began to learn about the W140. Today, I want to discuss which cars in my collection are pre-made and which are not. In fact, whether something is pre-made or not is the determining factor in its place in my collection.
Pre-made Sonder-Klasse
We are, or rather, those developed countries have long been in the industrialized age. As a complex industrial product, an automobile was destined to enter the “pre-made” mode from the moment the assembly line was invented—cars are produced before anyone buys them, completely “cooked” in advance. If we were to draw a parallel with food, a car you buy from a dealership is essentially a reheated frozen meal, many of which have already been “tasted” by others. However, thank goodness, for the W140, between 1991 and 1998, you could still get a non-pre-made vehicle—though this required both skill and luck.
Let us start with the pilot plant at Sindelfingen, specifically Bau 32 or Halle 32. Before April 1990, production line of 107 was retrofitted to serve as the pilot plant for the W140, designed to simulate mass production and train employees. This was the third phase of the MIT 140. Cars began being produced in a semi-handmade process starting in June 1990, with a daily production capacity of 10 vehicles. These cars were not pre-made; each one had its own specific purpose—training for different equipment and specifications for various markets. Each vehicle had a production order detailing its unique characteristics. These cars were not considered finished products as they lacked some components, and thus, they were used internally within the company.
Starting in March 1991, after about 600 units were produced in the pilot stage, full-scale production began. During the optimistic ramp-up phase, any resistance had to be minimized. Regular customers did not have the privilege of customizing anything that would slow down production. Even Klaus-Dieter Vöhringer, the head of the production department, had to wait a year before he could customize his own company car to set an example. Of course, high-profile defenders of the W140, like Niki Lauda, could choose their preferred colors and equipment, but only within the confines of the price list. That was the limit. If you were a valuable customer or willing to wait a few months for your car, you could customize a 500 SE with manual cloth seats.
Once W140 production entered a more stable—or even somewhat declining—phase, for example, in 1993 when demand slumped and production volumes fell below 350 units daily, leading to shifts being cut in the production department, sales representatives became more amenable to customers customizing their cars. Customers could also receive their cars faster. More important customers, like the royal family of Brunei, began to enjoy privileges outside the price list. As this practice became more common, especially with the establishment of Designo in 1995, theoretically, any customer could go to Stuttgart to customize their desired specifications. But these requests often had to bypass the dealerships because they always preferred customers to immediately buy the stock from their lot.
Depending on their attributes, I classify the W140 into three categories. You will find different examples of all three types in my collection.
Volks S-Klasse
To ensure quick turnover, a large volume of pre-made cars must be produced to facilitate fast sales, and even top-tier Mercedes-Benz S-Klasse are not exempt from this. Before a new car is launched, the marketing departments of each region have conducted thorough research into local preferences. For example, in Europe, where many luxury car buyers tend to be more frugal, the long-wheelbase 300 SEL with manual seat adjustments for the driver is produced; in the U.S., where customers are unlikely to accept a 560 SEL with an inferior audio system compared to the Cadillac, the new 300 SE comes standard with a BOSE sound system; in Japan, where the pursuit of luxury is outward but not necessarily in the inside, alloy wheels are provided, but ADS are considered unnecessary.
Intuitively, one would think that in high-demand markets, people would have more freedom to choose. However, logically, this doesn’t make sense because in a seller’s market, buyers have no say in the matter. Therefore, you’ll find that in the most successful markets for the W140, like the US and Japan, it’s increasingly difficult to obtain a non-pre-made car. I once owned a 1999 S 500 Grand Edition, one of three special editions of the W140, exclusive to the US market, with “only” 600 units produced. Based on its marketing, it seemed like a rare edition, but in reality, it was the most common model for the 1999 and possibly for all model years. No W140 was ever a “600-set” model, yet they produced 600 identical “special editions” and sold it as an exclusive product.
This particular car opted for the best-selling color—black, albeit the less popular 197 Obsidian Black—with Nappa leather seats not available in the US market but in a regular beige color. The seats were made by the Designo department, but the color was not unique. Other noteworthy features include the bird’s-eye maple trim and unique floor mats, which were not available in North America. The manual rear sunshades and illuminated door sills were just part of the B6 package. Additionally, the 18-inch AMG wheels were a luxury that Americans had never experienced. I bought the car out of curiosity, but I found that I wasn’t particularly attracted to this combination, especially since I already owned a car with black paint and beige interior. Given its off-putting pre-made nature, this was the only W140 I have sold to date.
As time passed and more cars were sold, local market departments became increasingly adept at understanding the demands of each market. From a production standpoint, they also tried to reduce variety to cut down on management costs. Options considered niche gradually disappeared because they created extra management overhead, so in high-demand markets, customers had fewer choices. Bianca, a 1998 S 320 built for the Chinese market, is a perfect example. When the W140 first arrived in China, it was available in a wide range of colors, but by the last model year, nearly all were black, with white as a distant second, though still rare compared to black. These two colors dominated the market, and other colors became almost nonexistent. Due to foreign exchange and import controls, the specifications for cars destined for China were decided by MB China, based in Hong Kong (before its 1997 handover to China), and regular customers had no input on the car’s configuration or direct contact with sales representatives.
The car delivery process is rather lengthy. MB China in Hong Kong would place the order, sending the cars to various Chinese ports, where they would be processed by Chinese importers before reaching customers, as the new sales network in China had little influence during the W140 era. By the time the car reached the customer, it had passed through several hands, preventing any opportunity for customization. Customers could only buy the pre-made cars. MB China believed that Chinese customers had a high level of basic requirements: long wheelbase, alloy wheels, four power-adjustable leather seats, sunroof, Parktronic, and walnut wood trim. They also knew that Chinese customers had little interest in cutting-edge technology, so features like ASR, ESP, ADS, and BOSE sound system were not included. In the end, the S 320 and S 600 for China had the same configuration. I included Bianca in my collection as a typical example of a Chinese-market car, but I will never acquire another pre-made car like it.
Japan, alongside the US and Germany, was one of the largest markets for the W140, with V12 models accounting for one-third of total sales. The Japanese version shared some similarities with the U.S. configuration but had local modifications. For example, the Japanese market version included velvet seats, a common luxury obsession for Japanese customers, which were absent in the North American price list. Unfortunately, this didn’t apply to the exclusive S 600 with custom seats. Since most cars in Japan were imported by YANASE, it was natural that YANASE would represent the Japanese market’s special requirements, such as the CNS system. However, for standardization, the CNS system, like many other Japanese features, became a non-negotiable option. This system only supports Japanese language interfaces, so foreigners unfamiliar with Japanese would have to learn it.
In this 1996 S 600, you can clearly see Japan’s class system: only the top-tier models come with Parktronic, which is also available in the European S 280, but these features are impossible to find on the S 320 or S 500 in Japan. Only the S 600 was worthy of such options. At the same time, the mandatory refrigerator in the rear seats reduces the fuel tank to just 90 liters. Yet, despite its seemingly prestigious status, the S 600 lacks the standard BOSE system found on the entry-level U.S. models, the 18-inch wheels available as an option in Europe, fold-down tables, and swivel reading lights. The center armrest, which can only accommodate cassette tapes, the central tunnel blocked by rear AC, and the CD holder that takes up extra space in the trunk—these are all part of the package. Japanese S 600 owners simply didn’t need storage space.
Occasionally Non-pre-made
While mass-produced cars are the absolute majority, some vehicles that aren’t quite as predefined make their way into the mix. These cars are still, in essence, mass-produced—perhaps even of a lesser “caste” than fully predefined ones—but their specifications appear far less standardized and often display a certain individuality. To understand this phenomenon, one must first picture a scenario: In order to keep procurement costs for each option manageable, MB must maintain a certain volume of orders with suppliers. If the order quantity for a particular system is too low, suppliers will raise the price. The W140, for instance, is a product where demand never quite matches the design capacity. To maintain procurement prices, when demand falls short of supply, the production department distributes surplus systems to vehicles that don’t require them. As a result, some cars receive unnecessary options, which can be referred to as “scraps”—a means of selling off excess inventory to markets with high demand. Ultimately, the cost is passed on to the customer.
In 1993, the Chinese market experienced a boom following the historic lifting of restrictions on private car ownership. Initially, MB China couldn’t supply enough vehicles, which opened a window of opportunity for many parallel import dealers. To increase supply, factories began ramping up production of cars destined for China. Since China’s sales volume had been low and demand was still unclear, the factory chose specifications somewhat casually. Along the way, surplus parts were installed on vehicles intended for China. One of the earliest cars produced with a new name in June 1993 was the Nonna, a 1993 S 320. It had several unusually distinct options, such as a Bose sound system, which was unavailable on the S 600 in many markets, including China, adjustable switches for rear seatbacks in the front row, and rear air conditioning. However, it lacked a sunroof, walnut wood trim, seat heating, and ASR—more basic features.
Color is another instance where “occasionally non-pre-made” features emerge. During production, vehicles destined for the same color are sent together to the paint booth for efficiency in production management. Since the spray nozzles need to be cleaned before switching colors, spraying the same color together reduces time and cost. For rarer colors, sometimes different models are grouped together to reach the required quantity. At Sindelfingen, the W202 was the first companion to the W140. After the introduction of the W210, these three models would often appear in the same paint booth to meet the demand for low-demand colors. Cars painted in these low-demand colors were rarely requested by customers; they were sometimes a way to consume materials.
The inclusion of the sound system can be inferred as a response to weak sales in North America in 1993. Along with this, British-style instrumentation also found its way to China. Although China had yet to establish mature regulations, MPH had no foundation in the country. Before the end of the 1994 model year, British-style instrument clusters were installed in numerous vehicles destined for China, such as this 1994 S 320. 1994 marked the lowest sales year in North America, and from October 1993, digital odometers were introduced, differing from those in the 1995 model year. The British-style instrument clusters on cars for China might have been a reluctant decision by the production department to deplete inventory.
Thus, this vehicle not only has surplus instrument clusters but also features the rare 888 Beryl metallic paint, a color that had nearly zero demand in China. Due to its lack of popularity, this color was dropped from the price list in the 1995 model year. I also own a 1992 US-version 500 SEL in the same color. That car arrived at a dealership in California but never sold, eventually being exported to China. Special colors often meant a tough time for dealers trying to sell them. The Ruby Red 1996 S 600 was my first American car, and it is one of only four Ruby Red North American 1996 S 600s. It is reasonable to believe it was forced to be Ruby Red alongside some W210s, as it never received much affection. When I acquired it in 2018, I was the 14th recorded owner, with the first owner having driven it for only a few months. Despite there being only four such cars, demand was still lacking, and few Americans were drawn to the color, even though it was quite beautiful.
Sometimes, it’s not just unnecessary parts that end up in the mix; entire unnecessary cars also appear. Chimera, a 1994 S 500 Coupe, was one of the five coupes introduced to China in 1993. This car had fender turn signals, a BOSE sound system, and ADS—features entirely unnecessary for cars built to Chinese specifications. This car even lacked ASR. MB placed the ASR switch closer to the driver, as it was more commonly used than ADS. However, the left side of the car’s central console was empty, while the right side had an ADS switch. Yes, this car was never meant for the Chinese market. In the 1990s, China lacked widespread highways and unleaded gasoline, so who would need a leisure coupe? Although it was produced in November 1993, the car wasn’t sold until sometime in 1995.
Custom Builds
Let’s take a look at what non-standard, or “custom,” cars are like within the W140 series. Once you strip away the more common models, you’re left with something akin to Kentucky Fried Chicken. From a production perspective, these cars were not favored because their complexity slowed down the process and impacted procurement. These vehicles made up only a small fraction of the overall output, and they could be further divided into various types based on their specifications. The most exclusive type was the custom car, which required long production orders that could not be addressed by ordinary production instructions due to their complex demands. Such cars were rare even before the creation of the Designo department and could be categorized into different levels based on how customized they were. For Mercedes-Benz, political partners were the most respected clients, and even for small orders, the company would make every effort to accommodate them, as these clients often had the power to influence MB’s presence in certain markets.
Beatrice, a 1996 S 600 Sonderschutz, is one of the most non-standard cars I’ve encountered. The Kremlin in Russia ordered the first S 600 Pullman, which featured a unique 009 Sapphire Black color reserved exclusively for the Pullman. They also requested a custom-painted short armored version as the first car in their fleet. Beyond the color, Beatrice came with special equipment, including a massive console box that housed a phone. Even for models like Sonderschutz, Guard, or Pullman—where each car had a dedicated production order—there were still “pre-configured” versions available, as the production cycles for these cars ranged from one month to a year, and clients were often quite impatient. Sometimes, they even received prototype cars or media vehicles, which were as standardized as could be.
Once the Designo department was established, even less “royal” customers could customize their cars, though without anything too extravagant—mainly focused on paint and interior colors. Designo had its own menu of options, typically including some unusual colors. For instance, when certain trims that weren’t available in specific markets were ordered, Designo would handle the customization. A good example is the 1999 S 500 Grand Edition, which featured champagne-colored Nappa leather (SA code 235A). This was a standard trim, but since it wasn’t available in the U.S. market, it became a relatively privileged option. I have a 1999 CL 600, a real runner of a car. As a V12, it has clocked 310,000 miles.
This car is the only Azurite Blue 1999 CL 600 and the only one with a blue interior. In Europe, you could select blue Nappa leather (232A) for either a sedan or a coupe as a standard option, but in the U.S., it became a Designo vehicle. Unfortunately, as a U.S. consumer, it’s one of those interior colors that were simply out of reach. Meanwhile, in Europe, the luxurious walnut trim and 18-inch 5-spoke wheels that came standard on the coupe were not available in the U.S., and Designo couldn’t help. While I know this car isn’t particularly remarkable, in the U.S., it’s a “unicorn-level” build, and that’s why I bought it.
The first two examples represent non-standard cars, just with varying levels of customization. The third example, however, is a form of pre-configured customization: the car itself wasn’t special, but someone specifically requested it to be so. For instance, large dealerships and rental car companies would sometimes “customize” cars to meet their needs. My first car, Octavius, a 1993 S 600, is a product of a unique historical moment. After the 1993 explosion of the Chinese market, many personal dealers in Hong Kong tried to compete with MB China. To remain competitive on price, they sought sources outside the official MB China network, as they could not buy directly from MB China without paying a premium. At the time, MB had strengthened its sales oversight, including full monitoring of sales in Japan, but a power vacuum had emerged in some emerging markets.
Former MB Chairman Werner Niefer continued to act as an advisor for the Middle East and Eastern European markets after his retirement, helping the company secure deals. Towards the end of his tenure, an agreement was reached concerning the Eastern European market. A Dutch company was offered the S-Class at a discounted price on the condition that they would only sell it in Russia. However, these cars were never sold in Russia by the Dutch dealer. Instead, they were delivered to Hong Kong and then sold to customers in China. Cars like Octavius, which were meant for the Russian market, were built to the same specifications as the Chinese models but at a lower price. This arrangement was later deemed to have harmed MB’s interests, and the employees involved were sued and imprisoned in 1997.
The End
In 2016, my parents wanted to buy an S 320. Nearly all the S-Class cars here were black, but I had once seen a silver one on the road and suggested we get one as well. The salesperson told me that silver had only been available in a small batch introduced in 2014 and was now “no longer available.” Ironically, there were many color options listed on the website and in the brochure, but in reality, there were no choices. If you were only buying an S 320, you also had to settle for the ugly wheels that seemed designed specifically for the Chinese market (rarely seen in any other market). The salesperson further explained that since the S-Class was the best-seller in China, Mercedes-Benz had made some bundling arrangements with dealers. This meant that for every S-Class order placed with MB, the dealers were also required to order slow-moving cars like the B-Class. Jesus Christ, in the past the Jews laughed at the Germans as machines that couldn’t play chess, but now the Germans do business like Jews! For dealership the S-Class was sold at a loss, so they couldn’t offer customers any customization. This conversation occurred in a market that accounted for 60% of S-Class sales.
In the end, like everyone else, we got a dull black S 320. On the day of pickup, the overweight, middle-aged female salesperson was late, and she had many cars to sell. So, a few months later, the first thing I did when I arrived in the U.S. was visit an MB dealership near Dallas to see what they were offering. In the showroom was a black S 560 with some exaggerated options. Of course, it was also a pre-configured car, but its MSRP was cheaper than our S 320. The salesperson told me that if I wanted, I could build any specification I wanted using their system. How enviable! Unfortunately, the selection in the U.S. was still somewhat limited, and they weren’t allowed to offer the ugly Chinese-spec wheels. I decided to check their parking lot and, to my disappointment, found that this dealership had many S Coupes but only the single S Sedan in the showroom. When I returned, the black S 560 was gone. “It was just driven away. An Indian family bought it, and there were six people inside.”
Now, turning back to Xibei. In 2007, they opened their first restaurant in my city, one of the first in the country. Back then, their main offering was Northwest-style noodles, all of which were handmade on-site. Perhaps hard to believe, but the dim and luxurious décor managed to turn these humble noodles into a premium offering. It became a fashionable place for adult gatherings and drinking — expensive, but extremely popular, with long lines to wait. In 2020, during my wife’s pregnancy, I visited again, and it was my last time there. By then, they had grown into a large chain. The décor had changed to resemble a bright fast-food restaurant, with small tables covered in red checkered cloth. They would prepare a little hourglass for you, and the food would be served before the sand ran out. Needless to say, it was just overpriced and bland fast food — the lowest value-for-money meal I can remember.
After the storm, a few days ago, I passed by a Xibei in a shopping mall again. During dinner time, there was only one table occupied, much like the now deserted MB dealerships in China. I thought to myself, people are beginning to realize and grow tired of pre-made Mercedes and its premium, and have instead decided to customize their Xiaomi SU7 or Li L9 on their phone Apps.