Following the last steering tie rod, we are still working on the steering system as we are still working on it at this moment. This time it’s a relatively unassuming but still important part that has some interesting findings.
The Idler arm has a total of 3 connection points, 2 are used to connect the drag link located in the center of the steering system and the tie rod on the passenger side, and 1 is fixed on the subframe to provide support for the middle part of the steering connection. Because the 140’s recirculating ball steering gear is located on the driver’s side of the subframe, this tilts the system to one side. As for the bearing of the Idler arm, it is used to connect the Idler arm and the subframe. This assembly consists of two upper and lower rubber bearings and through-hole screws, and is sold as a repair kit.
At one time, this part was sold as A1404600819, and when the MAYBACH came out that also used a subframe, it naturally served the W240. Daimler only uses the subframe on these two cars, so it’s not surprising that they share the same parts. A visible problem is that when the 240 became more important than the 140, people were naturally unwilling to see the much more expensive MAYBACH using parts from the cheap old S-Class, so the part number was “upgraded” to A2404600419. The 140 is a relative of the MAYBACH The relationship doesn’t make the latter more affordable, but rather drives up maintenance costs on the poor old S-Class, for example they also share some rear suspension links, which alone cost more than most 140s on the market are worth.
Of course, I could still afford the part, so I ordered it. It’s not easy to find a decent copy of this kit on the market, and although records show that LEMFÖRDER also produces this part, there aren’t any available for sale on the market, perhaps a long time ago. You also have URO, VAICO and other brands to choose from, but it seems that the only one that can be called a quality product is febi bilstein. Well, that’s not really the case, but it’s like any track and field competition where the first place is a professional athlete, the second place is an elementary school gym teacher, and the rest are chubby guys.
As usual, we will first conduct a static evaluation, and then do a limited dynamic experience. I will attach the actual past experience at the end. The Repair kit includes 2 bearings, 1 screw and nut, so it’s not complicated. Starting with the bearing, both sides are the same, so only 1 side needs to be compared. Bearing consists of 2 parts, the outer rubber cover is placed on a rubber bearing. The rubber cover of the Genuine MB has a part number starting with 240, which doesn’t look that perfect for a MAYBACH. The rubber on the outside of the rubber bearing is good and looks very delicate, and the inside of the bearing is very smooth and looks impeccable. That’s enough for our low-end S-Class.
The rubber cover of the Febi bilstein also has the febi part number, but it’s jagged around the edges, if the Genuine is an 8/10, the febi is a 4/10, although the appearance doesn’t affect the performance, which most S-class owners have never seen in person Live this bearing. The rubber on the outside of the bearing is also rough, why the effort considering that part will be permanently covered in sleeve? However, there are very many machining marks on the inside of the bearing, they look like threads but are almost flat.
Comparing the screws doesn’t make a lot of sense, but I was pleasantly surprised that the M14 x 130 screw was exactly the same as the original part and I could use it directly on a 30 year old car. I want to talk about dynamic experience, which mainly focuses on three aspects. The first is the smoothness of rotation. After all, it is a bearing, and rotation is its first job. The second is the tightness of the rubber and the bearings. Because the steering mechanism is very tight, the amount of noise will be amplified to the steering wheel. The third is the softness of the rubber, as a cushioning component you don’t want it to be too hard and you don’t want it to be too soft.
The Genuine spins smoothly, the febi a little less so, and considering how rough the outside of their rubber bearings is, the inside may not be any better. Grabbing the bearing with one hand and the rubber cap with the other and twisting it in every direction, the Genuine barely feels any play, which is what you want. Febi will deliver a bumpy feel in certain directions, which means the rubber and bearings are not 100% fit. Later I will announce the consequences of installing the components in this case.
Although febi is considered the only competitor to Genuine MB, their prices are completely uncomparable. Genuine is four times as expensive as febi, whether it’s worth it or not is completely subjective. Interestingly, although the repair kit package shows that Genuine MB is made in Germany, the individual packages of the two bearings are both made in Czech. Therefore, if the screws and nuts are not made in Germany, then only the outer packaging of the kit is made in Germany. It’s worth mentioning that the bearings have their own part numbers, they are not shown in the EPC but can be ordered from the dealer and they can save you at least $15 if you don’t need screws and nuts. Febi is not shy about its origin this time, it clearly shows made in Germany. This is its ticket to the competition, and there seems to be no other German-made kit on the market.
It’s not the end here. Suddenly I wanted to check if febi kits have some kind of tolerance because as far as I know febi don’t make many parts themselves, they also have their own suppliers. As expected, I took out another set from my reserve. The two were almost completely different except for the packaging.
The second febi set has no writing on the rubber cover, but the part number is printed on the metal bearing. The outside rubber looks a little finer than the first febi, just a little bit. There are no thread-like processing marks inside the bearing. Visually it looks better than the first febi, but the dynamic feel is another matter. The second febi can’t even be rotated, it requires a lot of force to twist, and then you get very uneven resistance. It has the same wobble issues as the first febi, but the texture of the rubber is a little softer.
The two sets of febi have exactly the same packaging and labels, and I assume they are both genuine feibi, just made at different times and from different suppliers. Febi never prints the production date on their packaging, so there’s no way of knowing which version is newer. These two versions have their own characteristics, but their performance is far from Genuine. Here I will talk about some experiences: febi actually cannot meet the basic needs, when you install these two bearings to the subframe and connect with the idler arm, just twist the drag link and you can feel with your own hands the amount of clearance from the bearings . At this time, the strength of the wrist is much less than the strength of the car.
Why are we still using febi? Because most owners cannot accept the price of Genuine. It’s about consistency, if you agree with Genuine’s bearing, you’d better also agree with tie rods and drag links, and then the entire suspension component, and before you know it, a few parts exceed the monetary value of the car. Obviously one of the reasons why the 140 is attractive is its undervalued value. Today, few people are even willing to invest the maintenance cost of the MAYBACH in the MAYBACH, let alone invest in the 140. It’s like buying a sword, then holding the blade in your hand and stabbing with the hilt.
For this part, Febi is just >0, don’t expect it to restore any driving quality, it will just give you back a faulty car. Rubber certainly has its lifespan, but proper storage and low-frequency use can keep it fresh for a long time. If you plan to keep the car for a long time and can store it properly, 4 times the price can fully earn back its value.
Please note that all parts are brand new and purchased in recent times (2023), they represent the current status of these manufacturers only and do not imply anything about the past or distant future.